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ranche to make it handsomer. Then the climate, with the sea-

breeze every afternoon in the hottest summer weather, had



gradually cured the sciatica; and his sister and niece were

now domesticated with him for company - or, rather, the niece



came only once in the two days, teaching music the meanwhile

in the valley. And then, for a last piece of luck, "the



handsomest spot in the Californy mountains" had produced a

petrified forest, which Mr. Evans now shows at the modest



figure of half a dollar a head, or two-thirds of his capital

when he first came there with an axe and a sciatica.



This tardy favourite of fortune - hobbling a little, I think,

as if in memory of the sciatica, but with not a trace that I



can remember of the sea - thoroughly ruralized from head to

foot, proceeded to escort us up the hill behind his house.



"Who first found the forest?" asked my wife.

"The first? I was that man," said he. "I was cleaning up



the pasture for my beasts, when I found THIS" - kicking a

great redwood seven feet in diameter, that lay there on its



side, hollow heart, clinging lumps of bark, all changed into

gray stone, with veins of quartz between what had been the



layers of the wood.

"Were you surprised?"



"Surprised? No! What would I be surprised about? What did

I know about petrifactions - following the sea?



Petrifaction! There was no such word in my language! I knew

about putrifaction, though! I thought it was a stone; so



would you, if you was cleaning up pasture."

And now he had a theory of his own, which I did not quite



grasp, except that the trees had not "grewed" there. But he

mentioned, with evident pride, that he differed from all the



scientific people who had visited the spot; and he flung

about such words as "tufa" and "scilica" with careless



freedom.

When I mentioned I was from Scotland, "My old country," he



said; "my old country" - with a smiling look and a tone of

real affection in his voice. I was mightily surprised, for



he was obviously Scandinavian, and begged him to explain. It

seemed he had learned his English and done nearly all his



sailing in Scotch ships. "Out of Glasgow," said he, "or

Greenock; but that's all the same - they all hail from



Glasgow." And he was so pleased with me for being a Scotsman,

and his adopted compatriot, that he made me a present of a



very beautiful piece of petrifaction - I believe the most

beautiful and portable he had.



Here was a man, at least, who was a Swede, a Scot, and an

American, acknowledging some kind allegiance to three lands.



Mr. Wallace's Scoto-Circassian will not fail to come before

the reader. I have myself met and spoken with a Fifeshire



German, whose combination of abominable accents struck me

dumb. But, indeed, I think we all belong to many countries.



And perhaps this habit of much travel, and the engendering of

scattered friendships, may prepare the euthanasia of ancient



nations.

And the forest itself? Well, on a tangled, briery hillside -



for the pasture would bear a little further cleaning up, to

my eyes - there lie scattered thickly various lengths of



petrified trunk, such as the one already mentioned. It is

very curious, of course, and ancient enough, if that were



all. Doubtless, the heart of the geologist beats quicker at

the sight; but, for my part, I was mightily unmoved. Sight-



seeing is the art of disappointment.

"There's nothing under heaven so blue,



That's fairly worth the travelling to."

But, fortunately, Heaven rewards us with many agreeable



prospects and adventures by the way; and sometimes, when we

go out to see a petrified forest, prepares a far more



delightful curiosity, in the form of Mr. Evans, whom may all

prosperity attend throughout a long and green old age.



CHAPTER III - NAPA WINE

I WAS interested in Californian wine. Indeed, I am



interested in all wines, and have been all my life, from the

raisin wine that a schoolfellow kept secreted in his play-box



up to my last discovery, those notable Valtellines, that once




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