It was night-time when we came to one of the great falls. We
were able here to get at water; and having halted through the
day, on
account of the heat, kept on while our animals were
refreshed. We had to
ascend the banks again, and wind along
the brink of the
precipice. From this the view was
magnificent. The moon shone
brightly upon the dancing waves
hundreds of feet below us, and upon the rapids which extended
as far as we could see. The deep shade of the high cliffs
contrasted in its impenetrable darkness with the brilliancy
of the
silvery foam. The vast plain which we overlooked,
fading in the soft light, rose
gradually into a low range of
distant hills. The
incessant roar of the rapids, and the
desert
stillness of all else around, though they lulled one's
senses, yet awed one with a feeling of insignificance and
impotence in the presence of such
ruthless force, amid such
serene and cold
indifference. Unbidden, the consciousness
was there, that for some of us the coming struggle with those
mighty waters was
fraught with life or death.
At last we came upon a broad stretch of the river which
seemed to offer the possibilities we sought for. Rather late
in the afternoon we
decided to cross here, notwithstanding
William's strong
reluctance to make the
venture. Part of his
unwillingness was, I knew, due to
apprehension, part to his
love of
fishing. Ever since we came down upon the Snake
River we had seen quantities of
salmon. He persisted in the
belief that they were to be caught with the rod. The day
before, all three of us had waded into the river, and flogged
it
patiently for a couple of hours, while heavy fish were
tumbling about above and below us. We caught plenty of
trout, but never pricked a
salmon. Here the broad reach was
alive with them, and William begged hard to stop for the
afternoon and
pursue the gentle sport. It was not to be.
The
tactics were as usual. Samson led the way,
holding the
lariat to which the two spare horses were attached. In
crossing
streams the mules would always follow the horses.
They were
accordingly let loose, and left to do so. William
and I brought up the rear, driving before us any mule that
lagged. My
journal records the sequel:
'At about equal distances from each other and the main land
were two small islands. The first of these we reached
without trouble. The second was also gained; but the packs
were wetted, the current being
exceedingly rapid. The space
remaining to be forded was at least two hundred yards; and
the
stream so strong that I was obliged to turn my mare's
head up it to prevent her being carried off her legs. While
thus resting, William with difficulty, - the water being over
his knees, - sidled up to me. He wanted to know if I still
meant to cross. For all answer, I laughed at him. In truth
I had not the smallest
misgiving. Strong as was the current,
the smooth rocky bottom gave a good
foothold to the animals;
and, judging by the great width of the river, there was no
reason to suppose that its shallowness would not continue.
'We paused for a few minutes to observe Samson, who was now
within forty or fifty yards of the opposite bank; and, as I
concluded, past all danger. Suddenly, to the
astonishment of
both of us, he and his horse and the led animals disappeared
under water; the next
instant they were struggling and
swimming for the bank. Tied together as they were, there was
a deal of snorting and plunging; and Samson (with his
habitual ingenuity) had fastened the lariat either to himself
or his
saddle; so that he was several times dragged under
before they all got to the bank in safety.
'These events were watched by William with
intense anxiety.
With a pitiable look of
terror he
assured me he could not
swim a yard; it was
useless for him to try to cross; he would
turn back, and find his way to Salt Lake City.
'"But," I remonstrated, "if you turn back, you will certainly
starve; everything we possess is over there with the mules;
your blanket, even your rifle, are with the packs. It is
impossible to get the mules back again. Give little Cream
her head, sit still in your
saddle, and she'll carry you