reward, rowed the Portuguese
priest to shore at this place,
beyond which he did not dare to advance, and in venturing w
hitherhe had given sufficient
testimony of love for his native country.
We did not enter the Tajo till noon, when, after passing several
old castles and other buildings which had greatly the
aspect of
ruins, we came to the castle of Bellisle, where we had a full
prospect of Lisbon, and were, indeed, within three miles of it.
Here we were saluted with a gun, which was a signal to pass no
farther till we had complied with certain ceremonies which the
laws of this country require to be observed by all ships which
arrive in this port. We were obliged then to cast
anchor, and
expect the
arrival of the officers of the customs, without whose
passport no ship must proceed farther than this place.
Here
likewise we received a visit from one of those magistrates
of health before mentioned. He refused to come on board the ship
till every person in her had been drawn up on deck and personally
viewed by him. This occasioned some delay on my part, as it was
not the work of a minute to lift me from the cabin to the deck.
The captain thought my particular case might have been excused
from this
ceremony, and that it would be abundantly sufficient if
the magistrate, who was obliged afterwards to visit the cabin,
surveyed me there. But this did not satisfy the magistrate's
strict regard to his duty. When he was told of my lameness, he
called out, with a voice of authority, "Let him be brought up,"
and his orders were
presently complied with. He was, indeed, a
person of great
dignity, as well as of the most exact
fidelity in
the
discharge of his trust. Both which are the more
admirable as
his salary is less than thirty pounds English per annum.
Before a ship hath been visited by one of those magistrates no
person can lawfully go on board her, nor can any on board depart
from her. This I saw exemplified in a
remarkableinstance. The
young lad whom I have mentioned as one of our passengers was here
met by his father, who, on the first news of the captain's
arrival, came from Lisbon to Bellisle in a boat, being eager to
embrace a son whom he had not seen for many years. But when he
came
alongside our ship neither did the father dare
ascend nor
the son
descend, as the magistrate of health had not yet been on
board. Some of our readers will, perhaps, admire the great
caution of this
policy, so
nicely calculated for the preservation
of this country from all pestilential
distempers. Others will as
probably regard it as too exact and
formal to be constantly
persisted in, in seasons of the
utmost safety, as well as in
times of danger. I will not decide either way, but will content
myself with observing that I never yet saw or heard of a place
where a traveler had so much trouble given him at his
landing as
here. The only use of which, as all such matters begin and end
in form only, is to put it into the power of low and mean fellows
to be either
rudely officious or grossly
corrupt, as they shall
see occasion to prefer the
gratification of their pride or of
their avarice.
Of this kind,
likewise, is that power which is lodged with other
officers here, of
taking away every grain of snuff and every leaf
of
tobacco brought
hither from other countries, though only for
the
temporary use of the person during his
residence here. This
is executed with great
insolence, and, as it is in the hands of
the dregs of the people, very scandalously; for, under pretense
of searching for
tobacco and snuff, they are sure to steal
whatever they can find, insomuch that when they came on board our
sailors addressed us in the Covent-garden language: "Pray,
gentlemen and ladies, take care of your swords and watches."
Indeed, I never yet saw anything equal to the contempt
and
hatred which our honest tars every moment expressed
for these Portuguese officers.
At Bellisle lies buried Catharine of Arragon, widow of prince
Arthur,
eldest son of our Henry VII, afterwards married to, and
divorced from Henry VIII. Close by the church where her remains
are deposited is a large
convent of Geronymites, one of the most
beautiful piles of building in all Portugal.
In the evening, at twelve, our ship, having received previous
visits from all the necessary parties, took the
advantage of
the tide, and having sailed up to Lisbon cast
anchor there, in a