酷兔英语
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飞机落地后,我开车三个小时到达百内国家公园(Torres del Paine National Park)内的旅舍,四周美景环绕:积雪覆盖的高山、明亮的蓝色湖泊和茂盛的草原;我在外面坐了一个小时左右,观看自然界各种变幻莫测的形状和颜色,直到天色变暗。







The next day, a guide takes me to the Torro lakes, where I brave the arctic temperatures and plunge knee-deep until my legs are completely numb. Feats such as these are rewarded back at the lodge with steaming cups of cocoa as we listen to a guide give fascinating talks on the local history and geography in the lecture room.





我选了两条主要徒步路线和一次骑马活动。徒步格雷冰河(Grey Glacier)是最受欢迎的路线之一。这次徒步很棒,顺着一条蜿蜒地山道慢慢往上爬,壮阔的美景逐渐浮现在眼前。最后我们翻过了这座陡峭山坡的坡顶,波光粼粼的冰川浮现在我们眼前,其他徒步队伍也在这里欣赏美景。就在我坐下来喝热咖啡和比利酒、吃牛肉三明治时,我意外地看到了我伦敦的邻居。这样的巧遇实在太不可思议了,因为我们现在可是身处地球的尽头啊。







The last day ends spectacularly. I join some of the other guests from the lodge at a gaucho ranch nearby. Here, two lambs are strung up around a central fire in a crucifixion pose, empanadas are being baked and gauchos in leather boots and jaunty berets at right angles are busy deftlycarving meat off with the knives that are ever present in their finely woven belts.





第二天,一个向导带我去了Torro湖,我冒着极寒跳进了及膝深的湖水,直到我的小腿完全麻木。这样的"壮举"在回到旅舍后得到了奖赏,我们喝着热气腾腾的可可,在大厅里听向导讲述当地有趣的历史和地理。







After a delicious feast, it is time to saddle up. I am going for a gallop with Maria, a beautiful, rosy-cheeked gaucha who slaughters sheep and tends to the sick horses with the best of her fellows. Bella, my steed is one of Patagonia's long-distance endurance champions, a reassuring fact given that you can go for days without seeing any sign of civilization in this terrain. We set off on a path next to a valley.





最后一天结束得很圆满。我和其他一些旅舍的客人去了附近的一个加乌乔(gaucho,南美草原的牧民──译注)牧场。在那里,两只羔羊四肢张开被悬挂在一堆篝火上方,有人在烘烤肉馅卷饼,牧民们脚穿皮靴,戴着帽檐向右倾斜的俏皮的贝雷帽,忙着手法娴熟地用小刀割肉。这些刀他们总是随身携带,别在他们编织精美的腰带里。







As we gallop, our hair flying in the wind (no hard hats here), our horses expertly negotiate the windy paths and come to a stop next to a ravine with a clear river rolling by, the mountains glistening in the distance. As I take in this immense view and silence, alone except for a condor circling overhead, I wonder whether it is possible for a 32-year-old Londoner to pack it all in, wear a jaunty beret and run off with the gauchos forever.





享受美味大餐后就该跨上马鞍了。我和玛利亚(Maria)骑马飞奔了一圈,她是一个漂亮的、脸颊泛红的加乌乔牧民,负责宰羊并和最要好的几个伙伴照顾生病的马。我的马名叫贝拉(Bella),她是巴塔哥尼亚长距离耐力赛的冠军之一,这让我放下心来,因为在这片土地上有可能会走好几天都看不见任何文明的迹象。我们从峡谷旁的一条小道上路了。







Jemima Sissons




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