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to the river, and the fourth would wash it in the 'rocker.'
The average weight of gold got by each miner while we were at

the 'wet diggin's,' I.E. where water had to be used, was
nearly half an ounce or seven dollars' worth a day. We saw

three Englishmen who had bought a claim 30 feet by 100 feet,
for 1,400 dollars. It had been bought and sold twice before

for considerable sums, each party supposing it to be nearly
'played out.' In three weeks the Englishmen paid their 1,400

dollars and had cleared thirteen dollars a day apiece for
their labour.

Our presence here created both curiosity and suspicion, for
each gang and each individual was very shy of his neighbour.

They did not believe our story of crossing the plains; they
themselves, for the most part, had come round the Horn; a few

across the isthmus. Then, if we didn't want to dig, what did
we want? Another peculiarity about us - a great one - was,

that, so far as they could see, we were unarmed. At night
the majority, all except the few who had huts, slept in a

zinc house or sort of low-roofed barn, against the walls of
which were three tiers of bunks. There was no room for us,

even if we had wished it, but we managed to hire a trestle.
Mattress or covering we had none. As Fred and I lay side by

side, squeezed together in a trough scarcely big enough for
one, we heard two fellows by the door of the shed talking us

over. They thought no doubt that we were fast asleep, they
themselves were slightly fuddled. We nudged each other and

pricked up our ears, for we had already canvassed the
question of security, surrounded as we were by ruffians who

looked quite ready to dispose of babes in the wood. They
discussed our 'portable property' which was nil; one decided,

while the other believed, that we must have money in our
pockets. The first remarked that, whether or no, we were

unarmed; the other wasn't so sure about that - it wasn't
likely we'd come there to be skinned for the asking. Then

arose the question of consequences, and it transpired that
neither of them had the courage of his rascality. After a

bit, both agreed they had better turn in. Tired as we were,
we fell asleep. How long we had slumbered I know not, but

all of a sudden I was seized by the beard, and was conscious
of a report which in my dreams I took for a pistol-shot. I

found myself on the ground amid the wrecks of the trestle.
Its joints had given way under the extra weight, and Fred's

first impulse had been to clutch at my throat.
On the way back to San Francisco we stayed for a couple of

nights at Sacramento. It was a miserable place, with nothing
but a few temporary buildings except those of the Spanish

settlers. In the course of a walk round the town I noticed a
crowd collected under a large elm-tree in the horse-market.

On inquiry I was informed that a man had been lynched on one
of its boughs the night before last. A piece of the rope was

still hanging from the tree. When I got back to the 'hotel'
- a place not much better than the shed at Yuba Forks - I

found a newspaper with an account of the affair. Drawing a
chair up to the stove, I was deep in the story, when a huge

rowdy-looking fellow in digger-costume interrupted me with:
'Say, stranger, let's have a look at that paper, will ye?'

'When I've done with it,' said I, and continued reading. He
lent over the back of my chair, put one hand on my shoulder,

and with the other raised the paper so that he could read.
'Caint see rightly. Ah, reckon you're readen 'baout Jim,

ain't yer?'
'Who's Jim?'

'Him as they sus-spended yesterday mornin'. Jim was a
purticler friend o' mine, and I help'd to hang him.'

'A friendly act! What was he hanged for?'
'When did you come to Sacramenty City?'

'Day before yesterday.'
'Wal, I'll tell yer haow't was then. Yer see, Jim was a

Britisher, he come from a place they call Botany Bay, which
belongs to Victoria, but ain't 'xactly in the Old Country. I

judge, when he first come to Californy, 'baout six months
back, he warn't acquainted none with any boys hereaway, so he

took to diggin' by hisself. It was up to Cigar Bar whar he
dug, and I chanst to be around there too, that's haow we got

to know one another. Jim hadn't been here not a fortnight
'fore one of the boys lost 300 dollars as he'd made a cache

of. Somehow suspicions fell on Jim. More'n one of us
thought he'd been a diggin' for bags instead of for dust; and

the man as lost the money swore he'd hev a turn with him; so
Jim took my advice not to go foolin' around, an' sloped.'

'Well,' said I, as my friend stopped to adjust his tobacco
plug, 'he wasn't hanged for that?'

''Tain't likely! Till last week nobody know'd whar he'd gone
to. When he come to Sacramenty this time, he come with a

pile, an' no mistake. All day and all night he used to play
at faro an' a heap o' other games. Nobody couldn't tell how

he made his money hold out, nor whar he got it from; but
sartin sure the crowd reckoned as haow Jim was considerable

of a loafer. One day a blacksmith as lives up Broad Street,
said he found out the way he done it, and ast me to come with

him and show up Jim for cheatin'. Naow, whether it was as
Jim suspicioned the blacksmith I cain't say, but he didn't

cheat, and lost his money in consequence. This riled him
bad, so wantin' to get quit of the blacksmith he began a

quarrel. The blacksmith was a quick-tempered man, and after
some language struck Jim in the mouth. Jim jumps up, and

whippin' out his revolver, shoots the t'other man dead on the
spot. I was the first to lay hold on him, but ef it hadn't

'a' been for me they'd 'a' torn him to pieces.
'"Send for Judge Parker," says some.

'"Let's try him here," says others.
'"I don't want to be tried at all," says Jim. "You all know

bloody well as I shot the man. And I knows bloody well as
I'll hev to swing for it. Gi' me till daylight, and I'll die

like a man."
'But we wasn't going to hang him without a proper trial; and

as the trial lasted two hours, it - '
'Two hours! What did you want two hours for?'

'There was some as wanted to lynch him, and some as wanted
him tried by the reg'lar judges of the Crim'nal Court. One

of the best speakers said lynch-law was no law at all, and no
innocent man's life was safe with it. So there was a lot of

speakin', you bet. By the time it was over it was just
daylight, and the majority voted as he should die at onc't.

So they took him to the horse-market, and stood him on a
table under the big elm. I kep' by his side, and when he was

getting on the table he ast me to lend him my revolver to
shoot the foreman of the jury. When I wouldn't, he ast me to

tie the knot so as it wouldn't slip. "It ain't no account,
Jim," says I, "to talk like that. You're bound to die; and

ef they didn't hang yer I'd shoot yer myself."
'"Well then," says he, "gi' me hold of the rope, and I'll

show you how little I keer for death." He snatches the cord
out o' my hands, pulls hisself out o' reach o' the crowd, and

sat cross-legged on the bough. Half a dozen shooters was
raised to fetch him down, but he tied a noose in the rope,

put it round his neck, slipped it puty tight, and stood up on
the bough and made 'em a speech. What he mostly said was as

he hated 'em all. He cussed the man he shot, then he cussed
the world, then he cussed hisself, and with a terr'ble oath

he jumped off the bough, and swung back'ards and for'ards
with his neck broke.'

'An Englishman,' I reflected aloud.
He nodded. 'You're a Britisher, I reckon, ain't yer?'

'Yes; why?'
'Wal, you've a puty strong accent.'

'Think so?'
'Wal, I could jest tie a knot in it.'

This is a vulgar and repulsive story. But it is not fiction;
and any picture of Californian life in 1850, without some

such faithful touch of its local colour, would be inadequate
and misleading.

CHAPTER XXXII
A STEAMER took us down to Acapulco. It is probably a

thriving port now. When we were there, a few native huts and
two or three stone buildings at the edge of the jungle

constituted the 'town.' We bought some horses, and hired two
men - a Mexican and a Yankee - for our ride to the city of

Mexico. There was at that time nothing but a mule-track, and
no public conveyance of any kind. Nothing could exceed the

beauty of the scenery. Within 160 miles, as the crow flies,
one rises up to the city of Mexico some 12,000 feet, with

Popocatepetl overhanging it 17,500 feet high. In this short
space one passes from intensetropical heat and vegetation to

pines and laurels and the proximity of perpetual snows. The
path in places winds along the brink of precipitous

declivities, from the top of which one sees the climatic
gradations blending one into another. So narrow are some of

the mountain paths that a mule laden with ore has often one
panier overhanging the valley a thousand feet below it.

Constantly in the long trains of animals descending to the
coast, a slip of the foot or a charge from behind, for they

all come down the steep track with a jolting shuffle, sends
mule and its load over the ledge. We found it very difficult

in places to get out of the way in time to let the trains
pass. Flocks of parrots and great macaws screeching and

flying about added to the novelty of the scene.
The villages, inhabited by a cross between the original

Indians and the Spaniards, are about twenty miles apart. At
one of these we always stayed for the night, sleeping in

grass hammocks suspended between the posts of the verandah.
The only travellers we fell in with were a party of four

Americans, returning to the Eastern States from California
with the gold they had won there. They had come in our

steamer to Acapulco, and had left it a few hours before we
did. As the villages were so far apart we necessarily had to

stop at night in the same one. The second time this happened
they, having arrived first, had quartered themselves on the

Alcalde or principalpersonage of the place. Our guide took
us to the same house; and although His Worship, who had a

better supply of maize for the horses, and a few more
chickens to sell than the other natives, was anxious to

accommodate us, the four Americans, a very rough-looking lot
and armed to the teeth, wouldn't hear of it, but peremptorily

bade us put up elsewhere. Our own American, who was much
afraid of them, obeyed their commands without more ado. It

made not the slightest difference to us, for one grass
hammock is as soft as another, and the Alcalde's chickens

were as tough as ours.
Before the morning start, two of the diggers, rifles in hand,

came over to us and plainly told us they objected to our
company. Fred, with perfect good humour, assured them we had

no thought of robbing them, and that as the villages were so
far apart we had no choice in the matter. However, as they

wished to travel separate from us, if there should be two
villages at all within suitable distances, they could stop at

one and we at the other. There the matter rested. But our
guide was more frightened than ever. They were four to two,

he argued, for neither he nor the Mexican were armed. And
there was no saying, etc., etc. . . . In short we had better

stay where we were till they got through. Fred laughed at


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