I have a sweet tooth and I'm new to wines. I have tasted dry wines and I am
totally not feeling them. I know I would enjoy something sweet. Many people suggest
dessert wines, but those are tooo sweet. Are there any other sweet wines that I could try beside
dessert wines?
--Rose N. Kinyua, Dallas
Instead of sweet, think fruity. In reds, try Beaujolais. It's not sweet, but it's so fruity that people who have a sweet tooth often like it. Get the 2007 Beaujolais-Villages (until the 2008 is
available) and see what you think. Also, try a German Riesling-any German Riesling called 'Riesling Kabinett' might do it for you. And while you won't see Gewürztraminer everywhere (it's a peppery white that is often a bit sweet and always
delightful), keep your eyes peeled for that. You might also want to do yourself a favor and try an
inexpensive bottle of bubbly like soft Prosecco from Italy, which is pleasant and oh so easy to drink. Or grab a floral and fruity Torrontés, the popular white wine of Argentina. It often has hints of honey, apples, peaches and pears. More generally, we can't
stress enough the benefits of
finding a merchant whom you trust to
identify just what kinds of wines you like.
The Magic of Chablis
We are going away soon on our
annual four-week hiatus-no, it's not a
vacation because we'll spend the whole month hectoring the girls about preparing for their return to college-but before we went we wanted to leave you with this one word: Chablis. Truly, if you have not yet enjoyed a bottle of Chablis with seafood this summer, what are you
waiting for?
Chablis-the real thing, from France-is made from the Chardonnay grape in a smallish area in northern Burgundy. The
geography is important because the grapes that grow out of that mineral-rich soil are left with
abundant acidity and a focused
purity. We love it with seafood. So the other night, when Dottie made
lightly fried oysters and shrimp for dinner, John
decided to visit a little
suburban wine store, looking for a bottle of wine for dinner.
His first choice was Chablis and the name he planned to look for was William Fevre. While Fevre may not be the best winemaker in all of Chablis or even our very favorite in all of our tastings, what we know about Fevre wines is that they are
relatively widely
available,
consistently good and well-priced. Plus, they always do well in our tastings. While there are various levels of Chablis, including Grand Cru, John was more interested in basic Chablis, which is a better buy. We have not found the usually much-higher prices for the fancier bottlings to be great values. Finally, John didn't
consult a vintage chart before he looked and didn't really care. Young Chablis is
delightful; older Chablis has a special depth, and because this store takes good care of its inventory, older would be fine.
The store is small, but the
selection is well-chosen and broad-it seems to have one or two of just about everything. And, sure enough, there was William Fevre 'Champs Royaux' 2007, for $27. He picked it up. We chilled it and served it with dinner. The wine itself was beautiful-ripe and
intense, with good minerals and a lime kick at the end with a kind of vague little cloud of burnt sugar that reminded us of crème brûlée. It was dry, with a beautiful fruit-oak balance that made it
wonderfully complete. We enjoy all kinds of pairings and we experiment with them all the time, but few pairings in the world are as utterly seamless as a good Chablis and good seafood. When paired with plump,
creamy oysters in a s
lightly salty crunchy coating and dense, salty and sweet shrimp, the flinty acidity of the Chablis was little short of magical.
DOROTHY J. GAITER / BRECHER