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一种神奇的食物:面包果

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The breadfruit is a remarkable food: The prickly football-size pod is full of nutrients and energy. Growing on one of the earth's highest-yielding trees, it could even help alleviate world hunger, backers believe.


面包果是一种神奇的食物：这种表皮有刺的果实大约有足球大小，富含多种营养和能量。面包树是地球上产量最高的食用植物之一；支持者认为，它们甚至能够缓解全世界的饥荒。



There's just one problem: It tastes remarkably bland.


只有一个问题：面包果吃起来没啥味道。



'Like undercooked potatoes,' says Diane Ragone, a Kauai horticulturalist.


夏威夷考艾岛(Kauai)的园艺学家黛安·拉格恩(Diane Ragone)说，"吃起来就像没煮熟的土豆一样。"



'You have to kind of fool people to get them to try it,' says Jacqueline Lau, corporate chef for Roy's Restaurant chain's Hawaii restaurants.


罗伊餐厅(Roy's Restaurant)夏威夷各家分店的行政总厨杰奎琳·刘(Jacqueline Lau)说，"你得连哄带骗才能说服人们品尝一下。"



It's time the world learned to eat it anyway, says Ms. Ragone. After hopping around 51 Pacific islands to find different breadfruit types, she has assembled more than 120 varieties in a large grove at a National Tropical Botanical Garden site on Maui.


黛安表示，现在是应该学习怎么吃面包果的时候了。她走访了太平洋上51个岛屿，寻找不同种类的面包果，并在毛伊岛(Maui)国立热带植物园(National Tropical Botanical Garden)的一个果园内移植了超过120种不同的面包树。



Ms. Ragone and Ms. Lau are part of a movement among breadfruit fans here to teach people to like the tasteless stuff. They have started in Hawaii by pitching it to cooks -- professional and domestic -- and plan outreach campaigns for the fruit.


夏威夷群岛的面包果粉丝正掀起一场活动，以鼓励人们喜欢上这种口感乏善可陈的果实，黛安和杰奎琳便是其中的两位热心人士。他们首先向夏威夷的厨师们──包括专业大厨和家中的厨师──做推荐，并计划了一些推广面包果的宣传活动。



Ms. Ragone suggests sauteing breadfruit slices in butter until golden brown, then sprinkling cheese to make breadfruit nachos.


黛安建议把面包果切成小片，在黄油中嫩煎至金黄色，然后撒上奶酪，做成面包果版本的"烤干酪辣味玉米片"。



'Think of sauteed breadfruit as a platform for any kind of cuisine or flavor,' she says.


黛安说，"可以用嫩煎的方式把面包果做成任何一种菜式或口味。"



The breadfruit's proponents say it has unique qualities that could help feed the world's poor. One tree, a member of the fig family, can produce 450 pounds of fruit per season. The fruit packs 121 calories in a half-cup serving and is rich in fiber, potassium, phosphorous, calcium, copper and other nutrients. Its texture and yeasty odor remind some people of fresh bread.


面包果的拥护者们表示，这种果实的独特品质有助于解决全世界穷人的吃饭问题。面包果树属于无花果科，每一棵树每一生长季能产出200公斤（450磅）的果实。每4盎司量的面包果含有121卡路里的能量，富含纤维、钾、磷、钙、铜和其他营养元素，其口感和彷佛发酵过的气味让人联想到新鲜的面包。



'I feel it's the food of the future,' says Olelo pa'a Faith Ogawa, a Hawaii-born private chef. 'If I were to speak to the breadfruit spirit, it would tell me: 'Grow me! Eat me!' It can feed villages!'


在夏威夷土生土长的私人厨师奥格瓦(Olelo pa'a Faith Ogawa)说，"我觉得面包果是未来的主食。如果我能跟面包树精灵对话，它一定会告诉我：'把我种下，吃我的果实！'面包果能填饱村民们的肚子。"



Breadfruit has long been a staple in Pacific islands, from where it spread to the Caribbean and Africa.


长期以来，面包果一直是太平洋岛屿上的主食，并从那里传播到了加勒比海和非洲。



'It's something we all grew up with -- a comfort food,' says Pamela Young, weekendanchor and food editor of KITV, the ABC station in Honolulu. 'You steam it and add butter and salt.'


火奴鲁鲁(Honolulu)的ABC电视台KITV频道的周末节目主持人及美食编辑帕梅拉·杨(Pamela Young)说，"我们就是吃面包果长大的，它能让我们怀想起过往的时光。只要把它蒸熟，加上黄油和盐就能吃了。"



But persuading neophytes to eat it has never been easy. The fruit is extremely starchy, hence, bland. It can have a mealy texture and tends to spoil quickly, turning into a gooey mush.


然而，鼓励新人吃面包果一直都很困难。这种果实淀粉含量很多，因此口感乏味，粉状质地很容易煮烂，变成一坨浆糊。



Britain's Royal Society dispatched Capt. William Bligh to Tahiti in 1787 to collect breadfruit specimens to help feed colonies in the West Indies. After Capt. Bligh's Bounty crew mutinied, they tossed overboard the hundreds of breadfruit plants he had collected. Capt. Bligh finally delivered breadfruit trees to the Caribbean, but it took almost five decades for locals to develop a taste for it, according to some accounts of his mission.


1787年，英国皇家学会(Royal Society)派威廉·布莱(William Bligh)船长去大溪地岛(Tahiti)采集面包树标本，以帮助解决西印度群岛殖民者的吃饭问题；但布莱船长手下的船员叛乱，把采集来的数百棵面包树扔下了船。后来，布莱船长终于把面包树带到了加勒比群岛；但据一些有关布莱船长此次使命的史料的记载，当地人花了近五十年时间才适应了面包果的口味。



Epicurious, a recipe website, doesn't have an entry for breadfruit. Arnold Hiura, author of the 2010 book, 'Kau Kau: Cuisine & Culture in the Hawaiian Islands,' mentions it only as a 'canoe plant' that Polynesian settlers brought in outriggers to Hawaii. 'It's one of those forgotten foods,' he says.


美食网站Epicurious上没有关于面包果的菜谱。阿诺德·修拉(Arnold Hiura)于2010年出版了《Kau Kau：夏威夷群岛美食与文化》(Kau Kau: Cuisine & Culture in the Hawaiian Islands)一书，书中只提到面包果是波利尼西亚殖民者用桨叉架船带到夏威夷的一种"移民植物"。修拉说"面包果是被人们遗忘的食物之一。"



Even some Hawaii residents are hard to convince. 'You know, it's fattening and it doesn't even taste that good,' says Michelle Sewell, who has breadfruit trees outside her home on Maui island but never eats the fruit.


连一些夏威夷的居民都不愿吃面包果。米歇尔·西维尔(Michelle Sewell)说，"你知道，这种淀粉类东西吃了容易长胖，而且也不好吃。"她住在毛伊岛，房子外头就有面包树，但她从来不吃面包果。



Ms. Ragone, the horticulturalist, hadn't heard of breadfruit until she moved to Kauai in 1979 as a gardener. 'The first time I ate it, I didn't really like it,' she says. 'It was really bland.'


现年57岁的黛安是考艾岛上国立热带植物园面包树研究院的院长，过去二十年间她一直在采集面包树标本，把它们种到考艾岛上。她于1979年来到考艾岛当园艺师，此前她从没听说过面包果这个东西。她说，"我第一次吃面包果的时候，其实并不喜欢吃，它淡而无味。"



She acquired a taste while doing research in Western Samoa in 1985. The 57-year-old Ms. Ragone, now director of the National Tropical Botanical Garden's Breadfruit Institute on Kauai Island, has spent two decades gathering breadfruit specimens and planting them on the island of Maui.


1985年，她去西萨摩亚(Western Samoa)从事研究工作，渐渐习惯了吃面包果。



Now, she and other breadfruit believers are ready to teach people that breadfruit can be appetizing, starting in Hawaii. They got help from eBay Inc. co-founder Pierre Omidyar, a Hawaiian resident, and his wife, Pam, who funded a meeting last year to assemble 25 breadfruit experts to create a plan to encourage people to eat and grow more breadfruit.


如今，黛安和其他一些面包果的提倡者准备教人们如何享用面包果，从夏威夷开始。他们得到了eBay公司的共同创始人、夏威夷人彼埃尔·奥米迪亚(Pierre Omidyar)及其妻子潘姆·奥米迪亚(Pam Omidyar)的帮助，后者在2010年资助了一个会议，召集25位面包树专家来制定一个鼓励人们吃面包果和种植更多面包树的计划。



The result was a breadfruit initiative that has enlisted chefs and restaurants to pitch the fruit and has sent advocates to local schools to get young people interested in eating breadfruit.


会议最终形成了一个推广计划，征集厨师和餐厅来宣传面包果，并派人到当地学校搞活动，吸引年轻人对面包果产生兴趣。



Robin Campaniano, general partner of Ulupono Initiative, the Omidyars' investment fund and philanthropic organization, says 'ulu, as breadfruit is called in Hawaiian, could cut down Hawaii's estimated 90% reliance on food imports. 'We look forward to finding out what opportunities might exist, such as creation of a commercial market for breadfruit or development of value-added products such as 'ulu breads, pancakes or flour,' he said.


罗宾·堪培尼亚诺(Robin Campaniano)是奥米迪亚夫妇创建的投资基金及慈善组织Ulupono Initiative的一般合伙人，他说面包果（夏威夷语中叫做'ulu）可以让夏威夷减少90%的食品进口。"我们期待发现这其中蕴含的商机，如建立一个面包果的商业市场，或开发一些增值产品，如'ulu面包、煎饼或面粉等。"



As part of the initiative, last month the Breadfruit Institute helped organize an inaugural Breadfruit Festival near the town of Captain Cook, where leading chefs judged a contest to find new ways to boil, mash, steam, roast, pickle and ferment the fruit.


作为推广计划的一部分，今年9月，面包树研究院在库克船长镇(Captain Cook)协助举办了首届"面包果节"(Breadfruit Festival)，发起了由知名厨师作评委的一场面包果菜肴大赛，借以发现煎炒烹炸这种果实的新方法。



Smoke rose from breadfruit roasting on burning coconut shells. Women mashed the fruit with pestles to make a traditional porridge-like food.


在比赛中，有人用椰壳来烤面包果，烟雾缭绕；有些女选手用杵棒把面包果捣成糊状，做成一种传统的粥状食物。



Ms. Lau of Roy's Restaurants, which has branches in places like Los Angeles and Las Vegas, was among the judges. The best recipes, she says, disguised the breadfruit by adding cream, bacon and cheese.


罗伊餐厅的刘女士也是评委之一，这家餐厅在洛杉矶、拉斯维加斯等地都有不少分店。她觉得其中最好的一道菜是加入奶油、培根和奶酪，根本看不出是用面包果做的。



(Roy's specializes in Hawaiian food but typically doesn't offer breadfruit on its mainland menus, she says. 'People in the U.S. [mainland] are not used to eating breadfruit,' she says.)


（刘女士说，罗伊餐厅的特色是夏威夷菜，但在其美国本土分店的菜单上不提供面包果类菜肴。她说，"美国（本土）的人吃不惯面包果。"）



Winning entries included 'Ulu Tamales with Coleslaw & Salsa; an 'Ulu Tart (two cups cooked breadfruit, one cup fresh coconut milk, Lehua honey, macadamia nut crust); and a breadfruit salad with cucumbers and dill.


获奖的菜肴包括"面包果墨西哥蒸肉卷配凉拌卷心菜和辣调味汁"(Ulu Tamales with Coleslaw & Salsa)、"面包果馅饼"（配料包括两杯煮熟的面包果、一杯新鲜的椰奶、桃金娘花蜜、夏威夷果碎），以及搭配黄瓜和小茴香的面包果沙拉。



Harriet Bower, an 87-year-old tourist from Washington State, hadn't tried breadfruit before that morning when she tasted a sample. 'It didn't have much taste,' she concluded.


87岁的哈里特·伯尔(Harriet Bower)是一位来自华盛顿州的游客，此前从没吃过面包果。菜肴大赛上她试吃了一下，并做出如下结论："没啥味道。"



Sonia R. Martinez, a Hawaii-based food writer who helped organize the contest, says that when she was growing up in Cuba, breadfruit was something she never considered eating. 'Most people fed it to the pigs,' she says.


索尼亚·玛提内兹(Sonia R. Martinez)是夏威夷的一位美食作家，协助组织了这次竞赛。她说自己小时候在古巴长大，从未想过面包果还能吃，"绝大多数人用它来喂猪。"



Ms. Martinez, a contest judge, paused when asked if she could taste the breadfruit in the tart. 'Umm . . . not really' she said. ''Ulu doesn't really have a taste.'


玛提内兹也是竞赛评委之一。当有人问她能不能吃出面包果馅饼中的面包果味道时，她迟疑了一下，说："嗯......吃不出来，面包果其实没什么味道。"



Julia Flynn Siler


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