seems to be pretty much the same; neither of them having had
their courage tried by Virgil's description of a storm, in which,

inspired as he was, I doubt whether our captain doth not exceed
him. In the evening the wind, which continued in the N.W., again

freshened, and that so briskly that Cape Finisterre appeared by
this day's observation to bear a few miles to the southward. We

now indeed sailed, or rather flew, near ten knots an hour; and
the captain, in the redundancy of his good-humor, declared he

would go to church at Lisbon on Sunday next, for that he was sure
of a wind; and, indeed, we all firmly believed him. But the

event again contradicted him; for we were again visited by a calm
in the evening.

But here, though our voyage was retarded, we were entertained
with a scene, which as no one can behold without going to sea, so

no one can form an idea of anything equal to it on shore. We
were seated on the deck, women and all, in the serenest evening

that can be imagined. Not a single cloud presented itself to our
view, and the sun himself was the only object which engrossed our

whole attention. He did indeed set with a majesty which is
incapable of description, with which, while the horizon was yet

blazing with glory, our eyes were called off to the opposite part
to survey the moon, which was then at full, and which in rising

presented us with the second object that this world hath offered
to our vision. Compared to these the pageantry of theaters, or

splendor of courts, are sights almost below the regard of
children. We did not return from the deck till late in the

evening; the weather being inexpressibly pleasant, and so warm
that even my old distemperperceived the alteration of the

climate. There was indeed a swell, but nothing comparable to
what we had felt before, and it affected us on the deck much less

than in the cabin.
Friday.--The calm continued till sun-rising, when the wind

likewise arose, but unluckily for us it came from a wrong
quarter; it was S.S.E., which is that very wind which Juno would

have solicited of Aeolus, had Gneas been in our latitude bound
for Lisbon.

The captain now put on his most melancholyaspect, and resumed
his former opinion that he was bewitched. He declared with great

solemnity that this was worse and worse, for that a wind directly
in his teeth was worse than no wind at all. Had we pursued the

course which the wind persuaded us to take we had gone directly
for Newfoundland, if we had not fallen in with Ireland in our

way. Two ways remained to avoid this; one was to put into a port
of Galicia; the other, to beat to the westward with as little

sail as possible: and this was our captain's election.
As for us, poor passengers, any port would have been welcome to

us; especially, as not only our fresh provisions, except a great
number of old ducks and fowls, but even our bread was come to an

end, and nothing but sea-biscuit remained, which I could not
chew. So that now for the first time in my life I saw what it

was to want a bit of bread.
The wind however was not so unkind as we had apprehended; but,

having declined with the sun, it changed at the approach of the
moon, and became again favorable to us, though so gentle that the

next day's observation carried us very little to the southward of
Cape Finisterre. This evening at six the wind, which had been

very quiet all day, rose very high, and continuing in our favor
drove us seven knots an hour.

This day we saw a sail, the only one, as I heard of, we had seen
in our whole passage through the bay. I mention this on account

of what appeared to me somewhat extraordinary. Though she was at
such a distance that I could only perceive she was a ship, the

sailors discovered that she was a snow, bound to a port in Galicia.
Sunday.--After prayers, which our good captain read on the deck

with an audible voice, and with but one mistake, of a lion for
Elias, in the second lesson for this day, we found ourselves far

advanced in 42 degrees, and the captain declared we should sup
off Porte. We had not much wind this day; but, as this was

directly in our favor, we made it up with sail, of which we
crowded all we had. We went only at the rate of four miles an

hour, but with so uneasy a motion, continuing rolling from side
to side, that I suffered more than I had done in our whole

voyage; my bowels being almost twisted out of my belly. However,
the day was very serene and bright, and the captain, who was in

high spirits, affirmed he had never passed a pleasanter at sea.
The wind continued so brisk that we ran upward of six knots an

hour the whole night.
Monday.--In the morning our captain concluded that he was got

into lat. 40 degrees, and was very little short of the
Burlings, as they are called in the charts. We came up with them

at five in the afternoon, being the first land we had distinctly
seen since we left Devonshire. They consist of abundance of

little rocky islands, a little distant from the shore, three of
them only showing themselves above the water.

Here the Portuguese maintain a kind of garrison, if we may allow
it that name. It consists of malefactors, who are banished

hither for a term, for divers small offenses--a policy which they
may have copied from the Egyptians, as we may read in Diodorus

Siculus. That wise people, to prevent the corruption" target="_blank" title="n.腐化；贪污；贿赂">corruption of good
manners by evil communication, built a town on the Red Sea,

whither they transported a great number of their criminals,
having first set an indelible mark on them, to prevent their

returning and mixing with the sober part of their citizens.
These rocks lie about fifteen leagues northwest of Cape Roxent,

or, as it is commonly called, the Rock of Lisbon, which we passed
early the next morning. The wind, indeed, would have carried us

thither sooner; but the captain was not in a hurry, as he was to
lose nothing by his delay.

Tuesday.--This is a very high mountain, situated on the northern
side of the mouth of the river Tajo, which, rising about Madrid,

in Spain, and soon becoming navigable for small craft, empties
itself, after a long course, into the sea, about four leagues

below Lisbon.
On the summit of the rock stands a hermitage, which is now in the

possession of an Englishman, who was formerly master of a vessel
trading to Lisbon; and, having changed his religion and his

manners, the latter of which, at least, were none of the best,
betook himself to this place, in order to do penance for his

sins. He is now very old, and hath inhabited this hermitage for
a great number of years, during which he hath received some

countenance from the royal family, and particularly from the
present queen dowager, whose piety refuses no trouble or expense

by which she may make a proselyte, being used to say that the
saving one soul would repay all the endeavors of her life. Here

we waited for the tide, and had the pleasure of surveying the
face of the country, the soil of which, at this season, exactly

resembles an old brick-kiln, or a field where the green sward is
pared up and set a-burning, or rather a smoking, in little heaps

to manure the land. This sight will, perhaps, of all others,
make an Englishman proud of, and pleased with, his own country,

which in verdure excels, I believe, every other country. Another
deficiency here is the want of large trees, nothing above a shrub

being here to be discovered in the circumference of many miles.
At this place we took a pilot on board, who, being the first

Portuguese we spoke to, gave us an instance of that religious
observance which is paid by all nations to their laws; for,

whereas it is here a capital offense to assist any person in
going on shore from a foreign vessel before it hath been

examined, and every person in it viewed by the magistrates of
health, as they are called, this worthy pilot, for a very small